Agile Climbing

The climb "Rebel Yell" is complete when you yell from the summit block. Standing on the Chianti Spire in the North Cascades, you might as well be on the wing of an airplane.

 fun,

 exposed,

long.

When I was a young climber, photos of a hidden climbing area called Trout Creek inspired me to learn to crack climb. Climbers worked together to resolve access issues with land owners were, and after years of anticipation, I made a visit this fall. It was everything I imagined, and then some.

 eat,

 sleep,

 climb.

I have never felt so strong or so accomplished in my climbing. The desert has an interesting effect on a person. In it's harsh way, the desert makes you tougher and more focused. I finished my ROCKtober with a week of hard climbing in Utah. When it is all you do for days at a time, one can reach a refined level of fitness and rhythm in their climbing.

My excitement and curiosity is piqued when I think about my time in the North Cascades and how much fun it has been to simply get outside. Looking forward to next year. My goals are to climb "The Nose", make an international trip, and begin guiding in the Cascades. My intentions for the latter can be seen on the still unfinished website agileclimbing.com

Cheers!

Solid Gold

Prusik Peak in all its glory

High up in the Cascade Mountains near Leavenworth, WA, is an area called "The Enchantments". Before this summer, I have heard about and seen pictures of the area, but have never actually pierced the veil and seen it myself. The name "Enchantments" conjures up larger than life adventure, spectacular beauty, and something magical. My experience climbing in the Enchantments did not disappoint.

Plans began when my friend/coworker, Trevor, suggested getting out in the mountains for some tough climbing. Finding someone with a similar appetite for difficult climbing, a cheery disposition, and a willingness to suffer is not easy, so I was thrilled about the opportunity. I have worked for Trevor doing carpentry for a few months, have shared some good climbing stories, and even bolted a route with him, but we had never actually roped up together. Never one to do things halfway, we decided to climb Prusik Peak in a day. Reaching Prusik Peak requires a 20 mile roundtrip hike, and just to be sure we would get full value out of our excursion we decided to do a difficult five-star route called Solid Gold. Solid Gold ascends a series of cracks just wide enough to fit my fingertips for most of the initial 450 foot face. After that, it follows the more moderate ridge line for a couple hundred feet to the summit. My girlfriend, Megan and her best friend, Erin, would join us for the alpine adventure, choosing to climb the classic West Ridge route.

The cleanest mountain goat I have ever seen

We had a little warm up day in Index, WA on the way to Leavenworth, which provided a good chance to assess where Trevor was in his climbing, and see how our chemistry was on a short multi-pitch. As usual, the climbing was hard (standard for Index), but Trevor, Megan, and I had a blast climbing Godzilla / City Park / Slow Children. Despite what the name suggests, there were no children harmed during our climb (disabled or otherwise). After a jump in the Skykomish river and a pasta dinner we sorted gear, packed food, and went to bed prepared for a 4am start.

So close, yet, so far

What can I say about the hike in? It is breathtaking, and wild, with goats, and alpine lakes, and heather meadows, and lots and lots of hiking uphill. Just to hike in would be a great workout, but after nearly 7 hours, standing at the base of one of the most amazing pieces of granite I have ever seen, we were not even halfway done. I felt about as good as I could expect, and as always, Trevor had a big smile on his face. As we racked up to climb, Trevor's excitement was palpable. He was like a golden retriever about to go for a walk.

Trevor following Solid Gold 5.11a

The moment I started to climb everything faded away. The weight of our hike, the chatter of my thoughts, it all left me as I worked my way up the delicate finger cracks taking easy breaths and moving from one stance to the next. I lead the first couple pitches and worked myself up to a little nook where I could bring Trevor up while sitting in the shade. Perhaps it was the fatigue, but I had a surreal sense of peace as I belayed. When Trevor's head came into view, I was so grateful for his company. I was even more grateful when he plucked a tick off my shirt and flicked it off the mountain. Trevor lead through the next few pitches which provided a consistent challenge and phenomenal climbing. When Trevor reached the top of the wall, I heard him yelling out to Megan, who was on her way up the final pitch of the west ridge, and I was thrilled to see her and Erin, in good spirits and on schedule for a long but reasonable day. We all congregated on the summit, where Megan ended up providing a bit of a rescue to some climbers on another route who were out of gear and in a bit over their head. After belaying the shaky climber to the top, we took our summit photo, ate gummy bears, and got ready for the descent. We made a handful of rappels and were back on level ground with no time to spare. Trevor and I bid the ladies farewell, and began bounding down the trail. We managed to make it down the steep rocky trail from Asgard Pass without any injury or rockfall, and made great time reaching the main trail. As we hiked back below the tree line, past campsites, and around lakes I felt surprisingly light and full of energy. Early on I suggested we might make it back to the car before dark and started talking about cheeseburgers and french fries. I was a bit optimistic. We weren't even close.

We got back to the car at 9:00 pm after a full 16 hrs of hiking and climbing. As if that weren't enough, there was still over three hours of driving to be ready to work the next morning. With a short stop for caffeine and potato chips, we pushed on through the night. Returning to Bellingham, safe and sound, is the most important goal of the trip. Back home, after a quick shower, I lay in bed, and felt a wave of gratitude and satisfaction. It is amazing what people are capable of when we push ourselves. One can't help but wonder, "What else can I do?"

Summit party with Megan, Erin, and Trevor

I already feel like 16 hrs wasn't so hard. For a few days following the climb, I had difficulty bending over, or moving quickly, but I look forward to tackling more big objectives with Trevor, and climbing in the Enchantments with a more generous time frame. Few places captivate me like the North Cascades and I suspect there is no amount of exploring that will break their spell on me. Hopefully, I can get out there again before winter settles in.

Until next time...
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Rock Craft

Used up, rusty, old climbing toys

Without the hard work of many inspired climbers, climbing would not be a "sport". After nearly a decade of climbing, today marks the first route I have bolted on my own. In between work and rain, my last two weeks have been devoted to this task. The fact that it is new, that it is my own, and it can be whatever I want it to be, is very exciting.

My perception of route development has been glorified by climbing books and movies. The old stone masters established routes in all the most spectacular areas of the country, and made climbing what it is today. As pioneers of the sport, they hold a mythical status in my mind. Yet, dangling in my harness with legs numb from lack of circulation, and my hands vibrating from hammering, I began to understand why they did it. Not for glory or building the sport, they established routes for the same reasons I was alone hanging on some forgotten rock in the middle of the woods. I was bolting because I saw a line that I wanted to climb. The payoff is a single moment when I can connect all the moves, and see my vision become a reality. Regardless, of who will climb the route after me, I pour myself into this project so that I can play. That is the only reason needed.

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Cast Iron Chef: Mushroom Challenge

"Baby Giant" Rowan is a baby giant

I had a lovely visit with my friends Will, Chrissy, and their son, Rowan. We capitalized on some nice weather to do a bit of climbing, had some good conversation about the nuances of relationships, and I had some quality time playing with "baby giant" Rowan. My favorite moment was early in the morning when I heard Rowan outside my door asking, "Uncle Colbin?" (that's how my name comes out of a two year old's mouth). When I responded, he promptly jumped up on the bed and joined Megan and I in our sea of down comforters. Megan (who I have never seen so awake at 8am) said, "I love Uncle Calvin. Don't you?" Rowan agreed, and the two of them promptly smothered me with kisses. It was the sweetest type of good morning anyone could ask for.

Will, in the incubation room at Sno-Valley Mushrooms

Not only did I get some good baby kisses, but Will also delivered a couple pounds of gourmet mushrooms from his farm, Sno-Valley Mushrooms, in Duvall, WA. This prompted a series of cooking experiments that I have been calling "the Cast Iron Chef Challenge". With a few pounds of lion's mane and blue oyster mushrooms I created some amazing meals that I am dying to share. Compared to the button mushrooms you find at the grocery store, these toadstools have a strong meaty flavor and some amazing medicinal properties. Research suggests that lion's mane supports the immune system against certain types of cancer, and may be used to treat nerve damage related to Alzheimer's and dementia. I could write a whole article about the special powers of mushrooms, but, for now, I will focus on their power to make amazing food.

Of the meals I prepared with these specialty mushrooms my favorite was Lion's Mane Alfredo. I went all out, using fresh spinach fettuccine from Bellingham Pasta and heavy cream from Twinbrook Creamery, to produce the type of dinner you might find in a 5 star restaurant. Check out mushroom-appreciation.com for the recipe I used, and interesting facts about mushrooms. I want to urge you, dear reader, to look beyond the button mushroom and portabella and experiment with some of the more exotic fungi at your local grocer (or what you can find hiding in the woods). You may discover unparalleled richness of flavor and texture.

Rather than copy and paste the Lion's Mane Alfredo recipe, I will share one I made from scratch. With my trusty cast iron, I have made frittatas for every meal of the day. Using blue oyster mushrooms (also shown to have cancer fighting and antibacterial properties) this recipe made an amazing breakfast and can be prepared entirely in one pan.

A colorful, well balanced, and complete meal with almost no clean up

• Begin by preheating the oven to 375 degrees farenheit
• On the stove top, warm up your cast iron pan with a tablespoon of coconut or olive oil on medium/high heat (if it starts smoking it is too hot)
• Fry two medium sized potatoes washed and cut in 1cm cubes, for 7 minutes or until tender; stirring often
• Add a half pound of breakfast sausage breaking it up with a metal spatula. Also add mushrooms, chopped into 1in pieces, and half an onion, diced. Cook until sausage is brown, stirring often.
• Mix in a couple handfuls of spinach, and remove from heat.
• Beat 6 eggs and pour over mixture.
• Season with garlic, thyme, salt, and pepper
• Put the cast iron in the oven for 10 minutes or until egg is firm and beginning to brown
• Remove from oven and let cool for 5 minutes, serve and enjoy (be careful not to burn yourself on the cast iron!)

You can go crazy with fritatta and add just about anything. Comment with your favorite fritatta and mushroom creations.

Dirty South

My first Red Rock Spring Break

I have been doing more climbing than working this month. It is everything I want, yet, there is a temptation to feel like I “ought to” be getting my life in order. Will I regret accomplishing my climbing goals in lieu of saving for retirement...? nah

I did not get a position with Teach for America. This was disappointing, but I feel like it is a chance to find teaching opportunities outdoors and not change fields. How this will come together is to be seen. Perhaps, the new climbing gym in town will be ready for me to develop a climbing school. For the time being, I am excited about working with my hands and learning a trade.

Tomorrow, I leave for Red Rock, NV and hope to climb a few routes I have been enchanted with for years. There is no better place for sunshine and long difficult routes.

The following sequence was from my last trip to Chattanooga where Megan and I discovered some fantastic climbing. Her parents joined us for a day of exploration at nearby Deep Creek. A lovely trail leads through the woods, across a river, and to a dramatic sandstone cave. We even found something we could climb in the rain and snow.

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Gear Review: Carabiners

Clipping bolts and hanging out
in El Potrero Chico, Mexico

Finding the right carabiner may not be the most important decision a climber makes, but it may be the most complicated. With a wave of new designs reaching the market, I want to share my observations of the ubiquitous aluminum clip.

Climbers have different demands and anatomy, thus I offer this as a guide, not a definitive ranking. As the trend towards small and light equipment has pushed some carabiners to comic proportions, a couple specific criteria have been considered. The primary qualities I am looking for are how well a carabiner will clip (depending on the type of the gate and the size of the gate opening) and how much it weighs. There are a too many carabiners on the market to review them all, so I have focused on those that are most common or most progressive.

Black Diamond OZ vs DMM Alpha Trad

 Extra small:

• Metolious FS Mini - gate opening 17m, weight 25g
• CAMP Nano - gate opening 21mm, weight 23g
• Old Black Diamond OZ - gate opening 22mm, weight 28g

Midsize wiregate:

• Trango Superfly - gate opening 26mm, weight 30g
• Mammut Moses - gate opening 25mm, weight 27g
• Black Diamond Neutrino - gate opening 22mm, weight 36g
• Camp Photon - gate opening 28m, weight 29g

Petzl Ange L vs DMM Alpha Trad

Solid gate, clean nose:

• Black Diamond Positron - gate opening 26mm, weight 49g
• Old Petzl Spirit - gate opening 20mm, weight 49g
• 2013 Petzl Spirit - gate opening 25mm, weight 39g

Wiregate, clean nose:

• DMM Alpha Light - gate opening 25mm, weight 28g
• DMM Alpha Trad - gate opening 27mm, weight 34g
• Petzl Ange L - gate opening 26mm, weight 34g
• Wild Country Helium - gate opening 27mm, weight 34g
• Black Diamond HoodWire - gate opening 24mm, weight 37g
• 2013 Black Diamond OZ - gate opening 22mm, weight 28g 

So, what does this all mean?

I categorized carabiners according to general similarities. Some noteworthy technical notes are marked in red, because I think it illustrates a glaring weakness.  I marked my favorite pieces from each category in blue, according to statistics and personal experience.

For recreational climbers: Consider cheaper midsize wiregate or solid gate carabiners. Find a color you like, avoid the extra small carbiners unless you have extra small hands, and you can't really go wrong.

For Avid climbers/gear heads: You get what you pay for. More expensive gear ages better and is less likely to become obsolete.  Variation in craftsmanship between brands is significant. The gate action on an old, well used Petzl or DMM carabiner is much snappier and consistent than on an old Black Diamond or CAMP carabiner. As far as innovation goes, most manufacturers are moving in the same direction, but that does not mean they are equal. For example, I recently picked up a new, clean nose Black Diamond OZ. I was impressed with the elegant design, but the gate action is is more difficult the further it is pulled back. My temptation to pick up a pile of sexy new BD 'biners quickly faded.

That's all for now. Comment with your favorite carabiner, and have fun out there. My next climbing trip will be to Chattanooga, TN. Look for a trip report in March.

Cast Iron Chef: Brie and Eggplant

I feel the need to share this recipe far and wide. I found eggplant on sale and took on the Iron Chef Challenge of making something edible with it.

With a little help from my 'ol cast iron, I may have discovered the most savory midday treat ever created.

Before I launch into my recipe, I want to share a little lesson on choosing and preparing eggplants. Not all eggplants are created equal. Male eggplants tend to have more seeds and can be more bitter than their female counterparts. Inspecting the naval on the bottom of your eggplant will reveal its gender. Not unlike certain parts of the human anatomy, a female has an elongated slit, a male's is more circular.

A friend pointed out that it is easy to typecast the eggplant and never realize the potential of this bulbous purple veggie. They do not need to be soaking in oil or covered in marinara sauce to taste good. In fact those two things should be avoided altogether. I recommend prepping eggplant by the following technique.

• Rinse eggplant, remove stem, and chop into 1/2in cubes. 
• Warm a pan to med/high heat and fry in 1 tbsp oil. 
• Cook for 15 minutes turning often and adding another 1 tbsp oil. 
• Eggplant is ready when all pieces are soft and somewhat transparent.

Now down to the business. To copy this masterpiece and feed two or three people the most amazing mid-day snack know to man, you will want:

• A Female Eggplant
• Hummus Spread (I like garlic Sabrasa)
• Bread
• Brie 
• Coconut or Olive Oil
• Balsamic Vinegar
• Fresh Arugula or Baby Spinach

To achieve bread and topping bliss. Follow these steps:

1. Cook eggplant (as described above)
2. Slice brie into 1/8in wide strips and lay across one slice of bread.
3. Pile warm eggplant on bed of cheese.
4. Heap leafy greens on top, and splash with balsamic vinegar.
5. Spread hummus on other slice of bread and slam it onto the savory mound, thus completing the celebrated eggplant brie sandwich.
6. ENJOY!